Trade, Crafts Shops & Inns: Nettlebed‘s position on a major long-distance Route, centrally placed amongst surrounding Market Towns, led to its emergence as a small-scale Trade & Service Centre for a wider area, certainly by the 17th & 18thCs & probably during the Middle-Ages. Woodland Crafts & the important Brick & Pottery Industry added to its diversity. Some of the Craftsmen recorded on Benson Manor in the 13thC possibly lived at Nettlebed & by the late-14thC, despite the Parish’s low ranking in early-14thC Taxation Lists, Brick & Pottery Manufacture was well Established (below). An equally prominent Trade was Brewing: in 1296/97, 7-Nettlebed Brewers (a large number for so small a place) were presented at Benson Manor Court, suggesting passing Roadside Trade, while the surname Hostiler (recorded in 1440) may indicate an early-Inn. One called the ‘George‘ was certainly functioning by 1500, when the Tenant threatened to Destroy it perhaps in a dispute over Rents. Lesser Beersellers probably also served the fluctuating Population of Brick & Tile-makers around Crocker End. More standard Rural Craftsmen included a Nettlebed Smith selling Locks to the Stonor family in 1477.
Brewing continued in the 16thC, other 17th & 18thC Tradesmen including blacksmiths, butchers, tailors, cordwainers, carpenters, bricklayers, colliers or charcoal-makers & a wheelwright. A few (like the Brickmaker Thomas Willis in 1627) were also involved in Farming, although in 1607 an impoverished Basketmaker left only £8-worth of modest Household Goods and the remaining term on his Cottage Lease. The largest-scale Businesses remained the Village’s Inns, of which the ‘Lion‘ was named in the mid-16thC and the ‘Bull‘ (owned by the Stonors) from the 17thC, when it was temporarily Sequestered for Payment of Recusancy fines. Both David Gascoigne at the ‘Bull’ & Timothy Holding at the White Hart (Taxed respectively on 10 & 5-Hearths) issued Trade Tokens, while John Meade‘s Inn in 1684 included several heated Chambers all with their own names. Coaching‘s 18thC expansion was reflected in the Bull’s large-scale remodelling & in the appearance of New Inns including the Nag’s Head & the Peacock (Stoke Row?), whose Keeper John Holding operated a Post-Chaise Service. Even so most Inns changed hands with some frequency Specialised Grocers were recorded from the 1720s, perhaps also catering partly for Travellers as well as for the surrounding area, while one in 1797 had London connections & belonged to a London Benefit Society.
In 1811, 40% of Families were chiefly Employed in Trade, Manufactures or Handicraft & by 1831 the number exceeded those relying mainly on Agriculture. Coaching collapsed soon after, but 6-Pubs (including former Inns) continued in 1851, along with Bakers, Butchers, Shoemakers & Wheelwrights, while several women worked as Dressmakers and Laundresses. A Saw Mill for cutting Brush Boards was ‘recently Built’ in 1847, & by the later-19thC Woodworkers such as Sawyers & Chair Turners were relatively numerous. In 1891 around 75% of Workers were Employed in non-Agricultural Occupations, of whom about a 3rd were in Domestic Service, a 3rd Sold everyday Goods & Manufactures & another 3rd Specialised in Woodland Crafts, Brickmaking & Pottery Production.
During the 20thC the Village gradually became more Residential & less Commercial, as access to Shops in Henley & Reading improved. Before the WW2 at least 20–Local Businesses remained, including a Baker, Butcher, Grocer & Hairdresser. The Village also supported 3–Building Firms, 2-Motor-car Garages, a Bank, a Doctor’s Surgery & several Pubs. In the 1950s small Shops & Business Premises were still said to ‘flourish with wide Rural support’, but as Car use increased many Closed down. In 2011 most remaining Businesses were Located on High Street, including the White Hart, a Village Shop & Post Office, a Cafe & Delicatessen, a Reproduction Furniture Business & a Petrol Station & Motor Garage. Some Outbuildings at Manor Farm were converted into Offices.
The Recreation Ground was Laid out by Robert Fleming c.1904/5 in a heavily Quarried area.
Brick & Tile Making: Manufacture was presumably encouraged by easy availability of Clay, Sand & Wood, the lack of good Building Stone, and Local demand from high-status Landowners including the Stonor’s and the Crown. In 1365 Nettlebed Kilns supplied some 36,000–Tiles to Wallingford Castle, and in the early-15thC Tiles were sent to Building Works at Abingdon Abbey & Great Milton, while in 1416-17 Thomas Stonor bought 200,000–Bricks from a Kiln at Crocker End for Work at Stonor Park. In England this was still a New Technology & highly-skilled Flemish Workers may have been Hired as Overseers. 3-Tilers or Brickmakers (Tegulatores) paid 20s for permission to Dig Clay (& Sand) at Nettlebed in 1485-86 & similar Licenses bought by Freeholders such as Thomas Hay & Benedict Wheeler suggest that they, too, were involved in the Industry.
From the early-17thC Local Brickmakers were mentioned regularly, among them the Sarneys of Rotherfield Greys. Robert Sarney (d.1667) had a House & Kiln (1) at Nettlebed, Leased from the Stonors with the Right to Dig Clay & Chalk on the Common, and the Family was probably typical in combining Brickmaking with Farming. 3-Kilns are shown on a Map of the Stonor Estate in 1725: one by the Church belonged to the ‘Kilnman’ John Shurfield (Kiln-1, d.1722), while 2-Others (at the Junction of the Henley & Watlington Roads) were held by William Percy (Kiln–3) & Thomas Wood. Other Kilns stood probably at Crocker End & Soundess. Bricks from Nettlebed were renowned for their Strength, which was attributed to the quality of the Clay.
During the 19thC the Nettlebed Industry expanded. 8–Brick & Tile-makers were mentioned in 1841, some holding Plots on the Common which were used for Digging Sand & Clay. By 1851 the number of Operators had doubled, and William Thompsons ‘Nettlebed Pottery‘ (Kiln-4) Employed 30-men & 25-boys. At Soundess Farm 100,000-Bricks were ready for Sale in 1861 & a similar number of Bricks & substantial quantities of Lime were made Annually for the Stonor’s. By then Clay Pits covered large parts of the Common around Windmill Hill, from which Thompson laid a Tramway to his Kilns (4 & 2) in the Centre of the Village. Control over the Digging of Sand & Clay was Sold with the Stonor’s Estate in 1894, although by then Brickmaking had begun to Decline, probably through increased competition. Even so many 1,000s of Bricks were still sent to Towns such as Reading & Maidenhead in the early-20thC. Brick Production at Nettlebed finally ended in 1938, and only a single Large Kiln (No.4 just North of High Street) has been Preserved.
Apart from the old Clay Workings on Nettlebed Common the only evidence of an Historic & 1-time Flourishing Industry is the Bottle Kiln in the Village close to the Henley-Oxford Road. This Up-draught Kiln, of which there were several on this Site (total-6) and elsewhere in the Village, is also typical of many others used in Oxon but which were Demolished when Potteries & Brickworks Closed down. The Bottle Kiln is the only one of its Type preserved in the Country today. It was Built in either the late-17th or early-18thCs. It was converted to a Downdraught Design in the early-1900s for Lime Burning and was in use up until 1938.
The Sectional Diagram indicates how the Kiln–4 operated. After the Firing Chamber was Loaded with between 12,000 & 18,000 Bricks & the Loading Door sealed with Fired Bricks & Wet Loam, a Wood Fire was lit in 3-Flues under the Firing Chamber Floor with Wood Fuel being fed through the Stoke Holes. The Kiln was then allowed to Burn for 2 or 3-days. This dried the Bricks before the actual Baking was achieved by means of Coal Firing for 36–Hrs at a Temperature of 950°C. Warm Air & Gases passed along the Flues & were drawn upwards by the Bottle shape of the Kiln through the carefully Stacked Bricks. More efficient Downdraught Kilns were in use in Nettlebed alongside the Bottle Kilns in the 19th & 20thCs. Many challenges were faced by the people of Nettlebed to preserve this one remaining Kiln but with the support of Local Benefactors and the help of Oxon County Council, who maintain the Structure today, the Restoration was completed in 1975. The Kiln may be viewed at any time and a Display Board close by describes its History and how it was operated. Walking down Nettlebed High Street one can observe many 18thC Houses faced with the Local Brick. Other fine examples of Historic Buildings constructed with Local Brick & Tiles can be seen in New Street Henley, Ewelme School, Wallingford High Street, Watlington Town Hall & Stonor House. Examples of Nettlebed Pottery Products can be seen in St Bartholomews Church on the High Street.
Pottery Making – Pottery Manufacture probably took place alongside Brick and Tile-making, being reliant on similar Materials. The Industry apparently Flourished in the 14th & 15thCs, when a Kiln Operated on the Swyncombe Boundary, although in 1485-86 Richard Newmer was unable to Pay all of his Rent for Digging Clay & Sand on the Common, while the Potter John Lawrence was accused of failing to maintain his ‘Tile House‘ as required by his Lease. By contrast the Potter William Butler (d.1560) was among the Parish’s Wealthiest Taxpayers in 1543.
Brick Making was then a Seasonal Occupation and one commonly undertaken by the Travelling Population in the 19thC & earlier. Firstly, the Clay had to be Weathered in the Winter Frosts, so that it was Dug out in the Autumn and left over the Colder months for the Frost to get at it and help break it down. In the Spring the Clay was turned over and the Stones & Pebbles removed before further Refinement, such as adding Sand, left the Clay suitable for Brick Making. After Moulding in Wooden Moulds, which were coated with Sand to prevent the Clay from Sticking, the Bricks were left to Dry before Firing. The Baptisms of the children indicate a Seasonal Pattern in terms of the presence of the Tribe, since tasks such as Brick Making were carried out in the late-Autumn, and then concluded in the Spring when the Winter Weather had helped break down the Clay. Sojourning (or staying somewhere temporarily) over the Winter months, when Travel was often difficult & sometimes impossible, meant that the Gypsies were available for the Seasonal Labour of Brick Making, so popular in the area, and could spend the Winter mending their Material Goods, making Besoms & Clothes Pegs and, of course, Churching their children in the Villages Close to the Common Land on which they Camped. Another reason that so many Romanies & Travellers were involved in Brick Making was that many of the Kilns could be found on the Commons, frequently the Poorest Land in the Locality. This meant that the Topsoil was thin and therefore easy to strip away in order to Dig out the Clay necessary for making the Bricks; in addition there was Local Woodland, Gorse or Brush, for Firing the Kilns. This made the Sites where Gypsies often Camped perfectly suited to this & the Travellers provided a ready Workforce, some acting as Sand Carriers, as well as Brick Makers & Brick Burners. Articles in Local Newspapers often focused on the Brick Works, which were considered such a significant part of life in the area. Reporting Accidents, Sale of a Yard, or appealing for Workers at Sites, became commonplace. Whilst the Workforce rarely made much money out of such Seasonal Activity, the Owners could sometimes do very well indeed.
Thereafter there is little specific evidence of the Industry, although as Potters & Brickmakers often used the same Kilns the Occupations may have sometimes been combined. A Potter was Gaoled in 1789 for setting Fire to a Building in the Village & in the 19thC the Thompsons’ Nettlebed Pottery & the ‘Pot Kiln at Crocker End both Produced Pottery as well as Bricks. Thomas Hobbs, Potter & Brickmaker, Employed 10-men & 2-boys in 1851 & in 1891 his Successor made Red Earthenwares. The Kilns continued after the Stonor’s Estate Sale in 1894, but Pottery Production Ceased before WW1.
Stonor Estate Sale: 26th September 1894: Including Farms; Industrial Buildings; Public Houses; Houses; Inns & Hotels
Benwells Farm, & Bix Manor Farm, at Bix & Assendon,
Bromsden Farm, Highmoor Farm, & Merrimoles Farm, Rising Sun Inn, Witheridge, The Green Man Inn, Green, Witheridge Farm all at Highmoor’
Bull Hotel, Nettlebed Farm, Nettlebed Foundry & Nettlebed Potteries, at Nettlebed.
Bricklayers Arms, High Road, Clarkes Farm, Colemore Cottages, Colemore Farm, Red Lion Inn & Satwell Farm, at Rotherfield Peppard.
Herbert Godwin (1870-1956) – Reminiscences: Nettlebed Mill showing the great 40-ft Stocks which Herbert helped to replace.
The old Mill stood on the Hill and was getting very shakey. In 1878 James, my father, used to go up to the Mill on Windy Nights from Hollops where he lived to stay with Charles Silver the Miller. It was not safe to be alone up there in rough Winds and between them they had to fetch the Sails around quick if the Wind changed direction. If she was not in the Wind he could sometimes lose one or possibly even all of the 4-Sails. In my time I helped supply the Wood for 2-New Sails after the Originals had been Blown to the bottom of the Hill. These were fitted by Silver and his son Charlie. In 1896, as I remember, a New Stock & 2-Sails needed replacing. The Wood for these was cut from Oak Trees in Westleaze Wood at Bromsden. I worked with J Wise the Woodman & Oliver Perrin from Bix. The Wood was drawn on a Timber Hob along the old Road from Bix to the bottom of Mill Lane at Nettlebed. Here C Perrin and ‘Juffer’ Jarvis Sawed it to the proper length of 40-ft. It was 11¾ x 12½-ins at the centre and (tapered) to 7 x 5-ins at each end. When it was ready it was pulled up & I was on top of the Mill and guided it through the Hub. It was a tricky job as the old Mill was shaking some but we managed. The Sails were then drawn up & I Bolted them in place; there was not another man that would go up above the 1st-Floor. We could have had plenty of Beer & Wine but it did not do to have too much working above the Ground. In 1903 I had to help with another New Stock for the Mill. This was cut from an Oak in Park Wood, Huntercombe, as we could not find one suitable on the Estate as it had to be Cramped in the middle (assume this was to put a Curve in the Beam to avoid it hitting the Curved Base of the Smock Mill). The Timber was Carted to Mr Hollies’ Yard & Sawn by T Jarvis and his mate of Port Hill. It was sawn to a length of 40-ft & J Earl drawed it up to the Top of the Mill with a Fowler Steam Engine Winch. It was a shakey job as the Engine made the Mill Shake & the Weather was Rough & Wet. I fixed the 2nd Stock & Sails with Bolts. I was wet to the skin & Rain Water ran out of my Boots & Clothes. My Wet Cap blew off and Landed at the bottom of the Meadow – John Lloyd fetched it back. A Windmill had stood on this Hill for over 400-yrs.
Exciting Viewing from the Mill: You could see a long way from the top of the Mill (695-ft above Sea Level). On a clear day you could see the Devil’s Dyke on the South Downs near Brighton as well as the Windmill at Copston Hill near Ibstone. The Post Mill on Staddle Stones at Stokenchurch was also visible. In the summer of 1876 1-day, when there was no Wind, a young man called ‘Ripper’ Jarvis asked to be tied to one of the Sails so he could try and see even further. The Miller tied him upside down to the Sail and then pulled it round steady so Ripper got to the top, but he got too dizzy & asked to be got down again quick. About the same time a dog called Skarper from the Bull Inn was running around outside the Mill and got caught on one of the Sails which carried him up & right over – he was alright in a few days. After about 1905 the poor old Mill was not worked again as it was getting unsafe, even for a Viewing Site. In 1912 it accidentally Burnt down, or that’s what people said, caused by Sparks from a Fire on the common. I say they must have to say that to someone else other than me ‘cos it was “Accidentally on Purpose”. I am sure I am not mistaken as we often had Bracken Fires not far from the Mill and they never caused any harm. Herbert Godwin
Milling: A Windmill on Windmill Hill existed probably by 1639, and in 1695 was Leased by the Stonor’s for £12-10s. a year. In the 19thC it was replaced by an Octagonal Smock Mill with a revolving Upper part, which was brought to the site from Watlington; the Stonor’s Leased it to a succession of Millers including (from 1868) Charles Silver, who complained in 1890 that the Tramway to the Brickworks was damaging Traffic to the Mill. In 1894 Silver paid c.£113 a year for the then 10-HP Mill & adjoining Cottage, which were both Sold as part of the Stonor Estate. He continued as Lessee until shortly before the Mill Burned down in 1912.
A particularly important part of the Sail Frame, the Windshaft is the Cylindrical Axle Piece (lying in the Ruins) that translates the movement of the Sail into the Machinery within the Smock Windmill. It had a Brick Roundhouse hiding the 6-Quarter-bar Trestle Support Base
Aston Rowant & Chilterns Spring Line Villages 